Chow Down Atlanta

I finished all these

If you didn’t know me or this blog any better, you’d think it’s a title for a recipe, no? NO. It is, however, the new place of Chef Steven Hartman. The one chef who made 20 adults (18 guys, mind you) swoon at the same time, in unison, with his custard. Yes, I was there. I saw it. I swooned, myself. You’ll remember him from Monteluce where he whipped up 5-star dishes. I still dream about all my meals there. His new project is still up in the mountains. Dahlonega. It’s a good hour and a half drive from Atlanta. But the drive is so nice. There are plenty of twisty roads and you’ll pass by a creek plus a small waterfalls that are all breathtaking. I noticed some of the trees were already turning its leaves despite still being late August.

Buttermilk is a very unassuming place. It’s a fried chicken joint. But with class. Don’t let the location fool you. Yes, it’s in a gasoline station. In a unit right next door to the convenience store. But the inside is cozy and modern. And quirky. They have this clothes line up by the ceiling running from the cash register that allows written orders to slide through to the kitchen. Genius! A partnership between Chef Steven and former Monteluce manager, Brad Egnor, the joint and the food are labors of love.

Fried chicken. First, you have to understand this isn’t your momma’s fried chicken. Nor your grandma’s. It’s not the southern style of hard, thick-crusted, browned pieces either. If you ordered fried chicken at the Ritz, this would be it. Made with Springer Mountain chicken and locally-sourced buttermilk, the chicken pieces are oh so tender. It takes, literally, rocket science to produce these. Brined in a sweet tea brine for two days (not 12 hours) then prepped in an immersion circulator, they are so moist and flavorful. What will make your jaw drop is the skin. After a long buttermilk bath in the immersion circulator, the chicken pieces are dipped in an egg wash and then in a concoction of dried ingredients. I was sworn to secrecy so I can’t divulge exactly what’s in it. In any case, the pieces are then fried quickly in super high temperature. The result is a crispy, thin-crusted skin that attaches to the meat and stays put up to the last bite. I have one word for you: delicious.

The deliciousness doesn’t stop there. The sides, made with locally-grown vegetables, are unbelievable. On my visit, Chef Hartman had freshly-harvested crowder peas that he simply simmered in a comforting broth. The fried okra had a similar batter as the fried chicken and allowed the vegetable to retain it’s taste and texture. The buttermilk biscuits have a crumbly crust, dense, yet soft inside. You can taste homemade in them. Sides change daily depending on what’s in season and what’s available. Everything is made from scratch.

For dessert, I had a BLT. (I was hungry!) This is one of the best BLTs I’ve ever had. The lightly griddled bread is soft and buttery and filled with smoky Benton bacon, heirloom tomatoes, crisp lettuce, and Duke’s mayo. I asked for a side of pimiento cheese and slathered it on the sandwich. The pimiento cheese is unreal. It’s not the goopy, creamy, sloppy kind you’re so used to seeing. This has nothing but shredded sharp cheddar, pimientos and the slightest bit of mayo. It’s spicy and cheesy. Yummy.

Oh, before I forget… and speaking of swooning. Get ready to do it again: Coca-Cola Cupcakes. O.M.G. No, really, OMG!!! This sweet, super moist, dense cupcake topped with melted marshmallow is better than… any cupcake in the world. I don’t eat desserts but I will food commute two hours to Dahlonega daily just to get these.

This is definitely destination-worthy. Make a day out of it — visit one of the many vineyards around and spend time in downtown Dahlonega. You won’t be sorry.

Driving tip… because the GPS was wrong:
After you exit 400 N and take a left at Ga-136, immediately make a right on Auraria Rd which will dead-end onto Ga-52. My GPS wanted me to continue on to Auraria and made it look like Auraria becomes GA-52. It doesn’t. Auraria ends at Ga-52. There is nowhere else to go but to either make a right or left at this junction. Make a left on Ga-52 then an immediate right onto Clay Creek Falls Rd. This is where there are more twisty roads and expansive fields. Take in the sights. You’ll also pass by a creek and a small/short waterfalls. Clay Creek Falls dead ends on Oak Grove Rd. Take a right on Oak Grove Rd and the gasoline station is just right there.

Twitter: @ButtermilkChick
More photos here.

Buttermilk Fried Chicken
2261 Oak Grove Rd.
Dahlonega, GA 30533
(706) 867-4963
Hours:
Mon-Thurs:6:30 am – 2:00 pm
Fri: 6:30 am – 6:30 pm
Sat: 10:30 am – 6:30 pm
Sun: 12:00 pm – 4:00 pm

Technorati Tags: tidal, Dahlonega, fried chicken, southern, Steven Hartman

My first taste of Chef Steven Hartman‘s food was during a wine conclave. There was a lot of swooning that happened then (of course, mainly from me, although the other guys around me did so, too, with the dessert). I wanted to find out if that gastrorgasmic experience was only a fluke. So I went back one weekend.

We did my usual stealth-dining-tactic (especially because I knew they would recognize me) — reservations never under my name, corner table, back turned to the public, paid in full… the worst part: no pictures. Okay, except for two crappy ones taken with my iPhone. But here’s one that I swiped from Steven’s blog:

photo courtesy of Steven Hartman

Here’s what happened:

Cauliflower + White Chocolate Soup Chocolate is tops in my book. This one was so creamy but with just the right amount of richness. You can taste the white chocolate in the background. The taste of cauliflower stood out but not enough to be offensive. The crumbled almonds gave an explosion of texture in the mouth. Swoon Factor: 10

Lamb Sweet Breads Tender pieces. Not gamey at all. Apples and watermelons were not too sweet as to mask the taste of everything.

Berkshire Pork Shank The entire Twitterverse heard me moan. The pork melted in my mouth. Most everyone pairs pork with apples. Lame. Steven’s use of huckleberries gave an interesting note of sweetness to cut through the rich meat. I got giddy as they popped in my mouth. The rice grits and brussels sprout leaves tied everything together. Moan and Swoon Factor: 10+

Beef Confit I honestly don’t remember much. I know it was really good as well, but I was pre-occupied with my dish.

Apple & Whiskey Fried Pie This isn’t your momma’s apple pie. The crust was soft and flaky. It wasn’t cloyingly sweet. It was delicious. But I wasn’t really paying attention at this point because…

Butternut Squash Cup Custard This had me in ecstasy. And I don’t even really like desserts. But this. This was happiness in a jar. You have to go taste for yourself. Moan and Swoon Factor: off the charts!!!

Verdict: best non-Ethnic meal ever. Chef Steven is a genius. Go now!!!

Le Vigne at Monteluce Winery
501 Hightower Church Rd
Dahlonega, GA 30533
(706) 867-4060
Twitter: @hogballs @montelucewine @MVineyards

P.S. Happy 3rd Birthday to me!