Chow Down Atlanta

My sister and I grew up eating at Brasserie Le Coze. Tagging along with our mom meant shopping always included (or concluded with) mussels in white wine, whole sole, and steak frites. We’ve been looking for a French bistro with the same caliber ever since they closed a couple of years ago (to give way to the department store next door’s expansion). News of Bistro Niko’s opening naturally excited us. While I never go to opening nights (unless they involve Asian food), we trekked over to the new Sovereign building to check out their food (partly in hopes of continuing our girls’ day out tradition).

Bottom line: impressive for an opening night — without any first night jitters whatsoever. We got seated within 2 minutes of arrival. The kitchen had perfect timing in sending out dishes. There were several managers milling about, making sure everything was okay and ready to address any issues (there didn’t seem to be any). There were water boys who made sure my glass was always refilled, without even asking. And then there was John who gave excellent, excellent service. A wine store employee for many years prior to moving to Atlanta, his recommendation on wine was fantastic.

We started off with three different appetizers. The “Faux” Gras Terrine was quite okay. I wanted a bit more bitterness but the berry jelly topping tempered it. It was still good, nevertheless, and I’d order this again. The grilled bread that accompanied it was jaw-breaking — very hard and chewy. Pair it with regular bread instead which is what we did.

The Escargot “En Croute” was good in that you can really taste the Pernod in the garlic-butter sauce. I like that they are already de-shelled and the balls of puff pastry were a nice touch. However, the snails themselves were bland and could use a bit more salt. An order comes in either 6 or 12.

Our friend Malcolm is crazy about oysters so we had to get them. The Oysters on the half shell were very fresh. We got three kinds, one of them was Malpeque. I particularly liked the red wine vinegar with onion bits dipping sauce that accompanied them. Unfortunately, the oysters were shucked very poorly. Lots of small bits of shell in them. What a turn-off.

The Boeuf Bourguignon was made with Kobe beef cheeks. Very tender meat. The burgundy wine braising sauce is very bold and strong. This is a very rich dish.

The Sole Barigoule was highly recommended by our server. Weak, weak, weak. The fillets were steamed (menu said roasted) then placed on top of some puree (carrot-artichoke-onion stew) instead of cooking them with it. The result is bland fish. I would not get this dish again.

The Agneau Cassoulet de Jambe aka lamb shank was the winner that evening, although, I think Murphy’s version is better. The meat was fork-and-fall-of-the-bone-tender with the sweetish-savory jus and lemony couscous making it quite tasty. This is a great dish that I would order again.

We also got an order of Pomme Frites which were just fabulous, though, a few more seconds in the fryer would have prevented some sogginess. These are fried twice — first at 325-degrees in duck fat, then at 375-degrees in peanut oil. The taste is just superb.

For dessert, my sister, a dessertaholic, got the Molten Chocolate cake. Although executed well, I didn’t particularly like the coconut creme inside. I personally prefer just plain chocolate sauce but the coconut (not indicated on the menu) just threw me off. I’m sure coconut lovers would love this, however.

This is more of an “older people” destination. Service was impeccable. Food was good but didn’t really make us go “wow”. Still, our parents would like this place and we can’t wait to take our mom here. Prices are quite reasonable for a restaurant of this class ($18-22 per entree).

Insider tip:
Menu here.
Valet parking.
Note: It’s important to note that even the valet guys were fantastic. The non-drinker that I am, after finishing less than a glass of wine, I couldn’t drive after the meal. They graciously parked my car in front of the entrance, within their sight, so that I was able to come back for it later.

The scoop:
Bistro Niko
3344 Peachtree Rd NW
Atlanta, GA 30326
(404) 261-6456

Technorati Tags: French, Buckhead, Atlanta, Buckhead Life Group

Sometimes, a foot-long just won’t do. Many times, I want to sit down and enjoy a great sandwich made with house-made bread and top notch ingredients, all concocted by a top notch chef. And just like the saying goes, good things come to those who… travel. Yes, this place is far. Very far. Even for me. But it’s worth every gallon of gas.

Chef Christophe (Au Pied de Cochon), is a friendly man who knows his game. He concocts French comfort food using nothing but the best ingredients. In fact, most everything he uses is made in house. The bread, too, courtesy of Chef Baker Jenny who tends the front of the house.

On my first visit, I was literally floored by the Croque Madam — slices of delicious ham and emmental cheese were sandwiched between homemade honey French bread, grilled to perfection, and topped with a perfect sunny-side up egg. It was so good that the only thing keeping me from ordering another one was the plate of macarons calling my name. I chose fries for my side and although good, could have used another 30 seconds in the fryer. No matter, the red aioli sauce that came with the fries was very good. Price tag: $7.95.

But the piéce-de-résistance here at Cafe Gourmandises is the Kobe Burger. Resembling a thick slice of meatloaf, the meat is first-rate and so tender and juicy with just a hint of seasoning — just enough to bring out the natural flavors of the meat. It comes out perfectly cooked medium and garnished with field greens, thin slices of fresh tomatoes, caramelized onions, mushrooms, blue cheese, crispy bacon and the chef’s spicy-sweetish mayo all in a fresh-made baguette that’s almost a foot long. Really delicious. I thought all the garnishing will over-power the meat but it didn’t. In fact, it brought out the flavor of the meat even more. And once you see someone having it, you’re gonna want one for your self. Four more orders were brought out right after ours. It’s a steal at $13.95.

My lunch companion’s fries were superb this time. They were so crisp on the outside and soft on the outside with that real potato taste in every bite. My warm stuffed grape leaves were also fantastic and I loved the light drizzle of balsamic vinegar on it.

Aside from the usual hot and cold gourmet sandwiches, Cafe G also serves quiches, escargot, calamari, lamb skewers, salads, and crepes (both sweet and savory). And if you have a sweet tooth, then make sure to leave room for the assorted desserts they offer daily — mini cakes, tarts, brûlée, macarons. The macarons ($5.95 for 6) are so yummy with a chewy outside and creamy filling.

I really love this place; a French cafe without any pretensions. The place is welcoming, albeit sparsely furnished, and the the warm vibe and delicious food are addicting. Despite the distance, it’s my new favorite lunch hangout.

Insider tip:
Go north on Peachtree Industrial Blvd past McGinnis Ferry Rd. (from 285 to PIB: once you cross Pleasant Hill Rd, it’s about 6 miles).
There is a very nice patio for dining al fresco.
Fresh homemade bread available for sale. Call for availability.

The scoop:
Cafe Gourmandises
686 Peachtree Industrial Blvd
Ste 200
Suwanee, GA 30024
(770) 945-6554

Technorati Tags: French cafe, sandwiches, soups, salads, quiche, Suwanee, Peachtree Industrial Blvd, French pastries

I have an obsession with bread and bakeries. Some people smoke; I eat bread. I spend at least $50 on bread (specifically bread loaves, baguettes, and croissants) every single week. My favorite bakeries are Star Provisions, H & F Bread Co., and the numerous Vietnamese and Korean bakeries peppering our city. Last weekend, I’ve discovered a new bakery to add to my weekly haunt.

Swiss Alpine Bakery is a true French bakery and cafe. It is owned and operated by a French couple — grandma tends the front of the house, and grandpa bakes in the back. They have an array of freshly baked pastries, croissants, baguettes, tarts, eclairs, tiramisu, cakes, and petit fours. The chocolate croissants are fabulous — buttery and flaky. The baguettes are just perfect.

They offer homemade sandwiches, salads, and soups for lunch. I had the chicken salad on baguette and the French onion soup. The chicken salad had chunks of chicken and apples to give a sweet crunch. It was really a good sandwich with the freshest lettuce and tomato slices.

The French onion soup was neither spectacular nor ho-hum. It had lots of onion slices and the broth was very flavorful. It just lacked the oomph I was looking for. Nevertheless, it was still good.

Pastries range from $3-4, croissants are about $2, baguettes are $2.10 apiece, tarts are $3.75 and $4, the sandwiches are $6.95, soups are $4.95, and salads are also $6.95.

Insider tip:
Located in the Ellard Village shopping plaza on the corner of Holcomb Bridge and Barnwell.

The scoop:
Swiss Alpine Bakery
8400 Holcomb Bridge Rd
Alpharetta, GA 30022
(770) 643-1100

Technorati Tags: bakeries, French baker, French bakery, sandwich, soups, salads, Alpharetta

A neighbor started Park Cafe about eight years ago. It was a quaint soup/salad/sandwich place back then. They’ve since sold the place and I was curious to see what new owner Chef Michael Ganley (of the Ritz Carlton fame) has done to the food and the place. As expected from a 5-star chef, the place has a 5-star atmosphere, but in a homey, cozy kind of way.

Knox House, where Park Cafe calls home, was built in 1899.  It was the home of the first Mayor of Duluth, John Knox. It was renovated in 2001 — half of the area went to the original specialty sandwich place, the other half to a craft store, and the upstairs for office space.  Despite the renovation, the character of the house was kept intact with the mostly original hardwood floors and paneled walls. Today, Park Cafe occupies the entire 2-story half of the building with a patio for outside seating and a foyer that doubles as a wine market.

I’ve heard about Chef Mike’s fried green tomatoes appetizer so I went for it. A stack of crisp green tomatoes, battered and golden fried came with a slice of warm brie cheese sandwiched in the middle then topped with fresh spinach leaves drizzled with thick balsamic vinegar and served with a bacon balsamic reduction with candied pecans, and diced fresh zucchini and tomatoes. This is probably one of the best versions of fried green tomatoes I’ve ever had. I love the play that the brie cheese and spinach gave to the fried tomatoes — it’s almost as if I was eating a salad, but with a much better flavor and texture. The balsamic reduction was not only perfect on its own: well-balanced salty-sweet flavor with the zucchini, tomatoes, and pecans adding a nice crunch; it was also perfect for the slightly tart green tomatoes. An absolute winner. And big enough for sharing.

I decided to go for another lunch specialty of the house: the country meatloaf sandwich. Two thick slices of meatloaf laced with mushrooms were grilled then served on a buttery, toasted bun then topped with fried onion rings, salad greens, and tomato slices. The meatloaf was delicious. I liked that they don’t serve it with boring lettuce. The fried onion rings were crisp and perfectly fried and lent just the right amount of saltiness to the sandwich. I chose the housemade slaw for my side and it was just as tasty.

I was already too full by this time and I don’t really eat desserts but my server talked me into tasting the sweet potato creme brulee. It was delectable. But I would have preferred its consistency to be a little bit more firm. Although delicious, it felt like I was eating applesauce.

Overall, I was very pleased with my meal. Service was impeccable — attentive, friendly, and efficient. Total lunch bill came to $26 before tip ($9 for the app, $9 for the sandwich, $6 for the dessert, and $2 for the diet Coke). Pricey for lunch but everything was delicious and everything on the menu is housemade. Park Cafe rivals all the hip and trendy spots ITP. This is a true gem, not only in the suburbs, but in this part of town — a fine dining establishment with great food and service.

Insider tip:
Reservations for lunch recommended. There was not a single empty table on my visit. Even the upstairs dining area was filled.
Lunch served daily even on weekends. Brunch served on Sundays. Closed on Mondays.

The scoop:
Park Cafe Restaurant & Wine Market
3579 W Lawrenceville St NW
Duluth, GA 30096
770-476-2989
Sunday 11am – 3pm Brunch / 5pm – 9pm Dinner
Monday CLOSED
Tuesday – Thursday 11am – 3pm Lunch / 5pm – 9pm Dinner
Friday – Saturday 11am – 3pm Lunch / 5pm – 10pm Dinner

Technorati Tags: Park Cafe, Duluth, Southern cuisine, French cuisine, American cuisine

Another great restaurant closes in Atlanta:� The Epicurean is now closed.� As of August 28, the restaurant and the wine shop closed its doors permanently.� The new owner will focus on catering instead.� Sad news.

Technorati Tags: The Epicurean, Decatur, Atlanta, French Cuisine, restaurants