Chow Down Atlanta

My sister and I grew up eating at Brasserie Le Coze. Tagging along with our mom meant shopping always included (or concluded with) mussels in white wine, whole sole, and steak frites. We’ve been looking for a French bistro with the same caliber ever since they closed a couple of years ago (to give way to the department store next door’s expansion). News of Bistro Niko’s opening naturally excited us. While I never go to opening nights (unless they involve Asian food), we trekked over to the new Sovereign building to check out their food (partly in hopes of continuing our girls’ day out tradition).

Bottom line: impressive for an opening night — without any first night jitters whatsoever. We got seated within 2 minutes of arrival. The kitchen had perfect timing in sending out dishes. There were several managers milling about, making sure everything was okay and ready to address any issues (there didn’t seem to be any). There were water boys who made sure my glass was always refilled, without even asking. And then there was John who gave excellent, excellent service. A wine store employee for many years prior to moving to Atlanta, his recommendation on wine was fantastic.

We started off with three different appetizers. The “Faux” Gras Terrine was quite okay. I wanted a bit more bitterness but the berry jelly topping tempered it. It was still good, nevertheless, and I’d order this again. The grilled bread that accompanied it was jaw-breaking — very hard and chewy. Pair it with regular bread instead which is what we did.

The Escargot “En Croute” was good in that you can really taste the Pernod in the garlic-butter sauce. I like that they are already de-shelled and the balls of puff pastry were a nice touch. However, the snails themselves were bland and could use a bit more salt. An order comes in either 6 or 12.

Our friend Malcolm is crazy about oysters so we had to get them. The Oysters on the half shell were very fresh. We got three kinds, one of them was Malpeque. I particularly liked the red wine vinegar with onion bits dipping sauce that accompanied them. Unfortunately, the oysters were shucked very poorly. Lots of small bits of shell in them. What a turn-off.

The Boeuf Bourguignon was made with Kobe beef cheeks. Very tender meat. The burgundy wine braising sauce is very bold and strong. This is a very rich dish.

The Sole Barigoule was highly recommended by our server. Weak, weak, weak. The fillets were steamed (menu said roasted) then placed on top of some puree (carrot-artichoke-onion stew) instead of cooking them with it. The result is bland fish. I would not get this dish again.

The Agneau Cassoulet de Jambe aka lamb shank was the winner that evening, although, I think Murphy’s version is better. The meat was fork-and-fall-of-the-bone-tender with the sweetish-savory jus and lemony couscous making it quite tasty. This is a great dish that I would order again.

We also got an order of Pomme Frites which were just fabulous, though, a few more seconds in the fryer would have prevented some sogginess. These are fried twice — first at 325-degrees in duck fat, then at 375-degrees in peanut oil. The taste is just superb.

For dessert, my sister, a dessertaholic, got the Molten Chocolate cake. Although executed well, I didn’t particularly like the coconut creme inside. I personally prefer just plain chocolate sauce but the coconut (not indicated on the menu) just threw me off. I’m sure coconut lovers would love this, however.

This is more of an “older people” destination. Service was impeccable. Food was good but didn’t really make us go “wow”. Still, our parents would like this place and we can’t wait to take our mom here. Prices are quite reasonable for a restaurant of this class ($18-22 per entree).

Insider tip:
Menu here.
Valet parking.
Note: It’s important to note that even the valet guys were fantastic. The non-drinker that I am, after finishing less than a glass of wine, I couldn’t drive after the meal. They graciously parked my car in front of the entrance, within their sight, so that I was able to come back for it later.

The scoop:
Bistro Niko
3344 Peachtree Rd NW
Atlanta, GA 30326
(404) 261-6456

Technorati Tags: French, Buckhead, Atlanta, Buckhead Life Group

Sometimes, a foot-long just won’t do. Many times, I want to sit down and enjoy a great sandwich made with house-made bread and top notch ingredients, all concocted by a top notch chef. And just like the saying goes, good things come to those who… travel. Yes, this place is far. Very far. Even for me. But it’s worth every gallon of gas.

Chef Christophe (Au Pied de Cochon), is a friendly man who knows his game. He concocts French comfort food using nothing but the best ingredients. In fact, most everything he uses is made in house. The bread, too, courtesy of Chef Baker Jenny who tends the front of the house.

On my first visit, I was literally floored by the Croque Madam — slices of delicious ham and emmental cheese were sandwiched between homemade honey French bread, grilled to perfection, and topped with a perfect sunny-side up egg. It was so good that the only thing keeping me from ordering another one was the plate of macarons calling my name. I chose fries for my side and although good, could have used another 30 seconds in the fryer. No matter, the red aioli sauce that came with the fries was very good. Price tag: $7.95.

But the piéce-de-résistance here at Cafe Gourmandises is the Kobe Burger. Resembling a thick slice of meatloaf, the meat is first-rate and so tender and juicy with just a hint of seasoning — just enough to bring out the natural flavors of the meat. It comes out perfectly cooked medium and garnished with field greens, thin slices of fresh tomatoes, caramelized onions, mushrooms, blue cheese, crispy bacon and the chef’s spicy-sweetish mayo all in a fresh-made baguette that’s almost a foot long. Really delicious. I thought all the garnishing will over-power the meat but it didn’t. In fact, it brought out the flavor of the meat even more. And once you see someone having it, you’re gonna want one for your self. Four more orders were brought out right after ours. It’s a steal at $13.95.

My lunch companion’s fries were superb this time. They were so crisp on the outside and soft on the outside with that real potato taste in every bite. My warm stuffed grape leaves were also fantastic and I loved the light drizzle of balsamic vinegar on it.

Aside from the usual hot and cold gourmet sandwiches, Cafe G also serves quiches, escargot, calamari, lamb skewers, salads, and crepes (both sweet and savory). And if you have a sweet tooth, then make sure to leave room for the assorted desserts they offer daily — mini cakes, tarts, brûlée, macarons. The macarons ($5.95 for 6) are so yummy with a chewy outside and creamy filling.

I really love this place; a French cafe without any pretensions. The place is welcoming, albeit sparsely furnished, and the the warm vibe and delicious food are addicting. Despite the distance, it’s my new favorite lunch hangout.

Insider tip:
Go north on Peachtree Industrial Blvd past McGinnis Ferry Rd. (from 285 to PIB: once you cross Pleasant Hill Rd, it’s about 6 miles).
There is a very nice patio for dining al fresco.
Fresh homemade bread available for sale. Call for availability.

The scoop:
Cafe Gourmandises
686 Peachtree Industrial Blvd
Ste 200
Suwanee, GA 30024
(770) 945-6554

Technorati Tags: French cafe, sandwiches, soups, salads, quiche, Suwanee, Peachtree Industrial Blvd, French pastries

I have an obsession with bread and bakeries. Some people smoke; I eat bread. I spend at least $50 on bread (specifically bread loaves, baguettes, and croissants) every single week. My favorite bakeries are Star Provisions, H & F Bread Co., and the numerous Vietnamese and Korean bakeries peppering our city. Last weekend, I’ve discovered a new bakery to add to my weekly haunt.

Swiss Alpine Bakery is a true French bakery and cafe. It is owned and operated by a French couple — grandma tends the front of the house, and grandpa bakes in the back. They have an array of freshly baked pastries, croissants, baguettes, tarts, eclairs, tiramisu, cakes, and petit fours. The chocolate croissants are fabulous — buttery and flaky. The baguettes are just perfect.

They offer homemade sandwiches, salads, and soups for lunch. I had the chicken salad on baguette and the French onion soup. The chicken salad had chunks of chicken and apples to give a sweet crunch. It was really a good sandwich with the freshest lettuce and tomato slices.

The French onion soup was neither spectacular nor ho-hum. It had lots of onion slices and the broth was very flavorful. It just lacked the oomph I was looking for. Nevertheless, it was still good.

Pastries range from $3-4, croissants are about $2, baguettes are $2.10 apiece, tarts are $3.75 and $4, the sandwiches are $6.95, soups are $4.95, and salads are also $6.95.

Insider tip:
Located in the Ellard Village shopping plaza on the corner of Holcomb Bridge and Barnwell.

The scoop:
Swiss Alpine Bakery
8400 Holcomb Bridge Rd
Alpharetta, GA 30022
(770) 643-1100

Technorati Tags: bakeries, French baker, French bakery, sandwich, soups, salads, Alpharetta

A neighbor started Park Cafe about eight years ago. It was a quaint soup/salad/sandwich place back then. They’ve since sold the place and I was curious to see what new owner Chef Michael Ganley (of the Ritz Carlton fame) has done to the food and the place. As expected from a 5-star chef, the place has a 5-star atmosphere, but in a homey, cozy kind of way.

Knox House, where Park Cafe calls home, was built in 1899.  It was the home of the first Mayor of Duluth, John Knox. It was renovated in 2001 — half of the area went to the original specialty sandwich place, the other half to a craft store, and the upstairs for office space.  Despite the renovation, the character of the house was kept intact with the mostly original hardwood floors and paneled walls. Today, Park Cafe occupies the entire 2-story half of the building with a patio for outside seating and a foyer that doubles as a wine market.

I’ve heard about Chef Mike’s fried green tomatoes appetizer so I went for it. A stack of crisp green tomatoes, battered and golden fried came with a slice of warm brie cheese sandwiched in the middle then topped with fresh spinach leaves drizzled with thick balsamic vinegar and served with a bacon balsamic reduction with candied pecans, and diced fresh zucchini and tomatoes. This is probably one of the best versions of fried green tomatoes I’ve ever had. I love the play that the brie cheese and spinach gave to the fried tomatoes — it’s almost as if I was eating a salad, but with a much better flavor and texture. The balsamic reduction was not only perfect on its own: well-balanced salty-sweet flavor with the zucchini, tomatoes, and pecans adding a nice crunch; it was also perfect for the slightly tart green tomatoes. An absolute winner. And big enough for sharing.

I decided to go for another lunch specialty of the house: the country meatloaf sandwich. Two thick slices of meatloaf laced with mushrooms were grilled then served on a buttery, toasted bun then topped with fried onion rings, salad greens, and tomato slices. The meatloaf was delicious. I liked that they don’t serve it with boring lettuce. The fried onion rings were crisp and perfectly fried and lent just the right amount of saltiness to the sandwich. I chose the housemade slaw for my side and it was just as tasty.

I was already too full by this time and I don’t really eat desserts but my server talked me into tasting the sweet potato creme brulee. It was delectable. But I would have preferred its consistency to be a little bit more firm. Although delicious, it felt like I was eating applesauce.

Overall, I was very pleased with my meal. Service was impeccable — attentive, friendly, and efficient. Total lunch bill came to $26 before tip ($9 for the app, $9 for the sandwich, $6 for the dessert, and $2 for the diet Coke). Pricey for lunch but everything was delicious and everything on the menu is housemade. Park Cafe rivals all the hip and trendy spots ITP. This is a true gem, not only in the suburbs, but in this part of town — a fine dining establishment with great food and service.

Insider tip:
Reservations for lunch recommended. There was not a single empty table on my visit. Even the upstairs dining area was filled.
Lunch served daily even on weekends. Brunch served on Sundays. Closed on Mondays.

The scoop:
Park Cafe Restaurant & Wine Market
3579 W Lawrenceville St NW
Duluth, GA 30096
770-476-2989
Sunday 11am - 3pm Brunch / 5pm - 9pm Dinner
Monday CLOSED
Tuesday - Thursday 11am - 3pm Lunch / 5pm - 9pm Dinner
Friday - Saturday 11am - 3pm Lunch / 5pm - 10pm Dinner

Technorati Tags: Park Cafe, Duluth, Southern cuisine, French cuisine, American cuisine

Another great restaurant closes in Atlanta:� The Epicurean is now closed.� As of August 28, the restaurant and the wine shop closed its doors permanently.� The new owner will focus on catering instead.� Sad news.

Technorati Tags: The Epicurean, Decatur, Atlanta, French Cuisine, restaurants

I heard that The Epicurean recently changed restaurant chefs in the name of Jon Wolf (Ritz Carlton) so CDA headed down to Decatur to see what changes have been made, to sample the new Summer menu, and well, to celebrate a birthday. I was happy to learn that there have been no drastic changes as far as the menu is concerned — the crab cakes are still a mainstay and the recipe (and taste) has remained intact. I’ll also have you know that I like Jon. I like his straight-to-the-point, no-fancy-schmancy-getup take on food: it’s simple yet original and creative; basic yet inspired. Case in point: Lobster Corn Risotto.

There were tons of tender, tasty lobster bits embedded in creamy risotto laced with crunchy corn then sprinkled with tarragon. It had a lot of different textures from the lobster, corn, and risotto, yet the simplicity of the flavors (salty with sweet, milky and creamy) made this dish scrumptious.

I was expecting a salty appetizer with the Prosciutto Wrapped Shrimp but was pleasantly surprised with the mildness of the prosciutto wrapped in a succulent, plump shrimp atop crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside corn cakes. It was definitely a good, mellow first course to the heavier-tasting risotto.

The Macerated Peaches dessert proved to be another perfect choice and complemented the shrimp and the risotto dishes. Surprisingly light, I was expecting (again) to be confronted with a rich, syrupy, sugary, mushy concoction. Instead, I was faced with an enticing martini glass full of peaches still with enough crunch then topped with homemade peach ice cream dotted with fresh peach bits. It was decadent!There were other dishes we consumed and each one was as wonderful as the other. If you want great food, great service, great wine selection in a French restaurant minus the snobbish feel, then Epicurean is the place to be. You won’t be disappointed. Guarranteed. (P.S. Tell Andres Chloe sent you!)

Insider tip:
Closed on Sundays and Mondays but will open Sunday, May 13 10:30am-2:30pm for a special Mother’s Day Brunch.
Their wine shop sits next door.
Menu changes monthly. Check their website for details.
Six-course tasting menus available on Friday/Saturday as well as a 3-course Prix-Fixe Tuesday-Thursday.
Service is outstanding.

The scoop:
The Epicurean Restaurant
1361 Clairmont Rd.
Decatur, GA 30033
Telephone: 404.321.0530
Open Tuesday to Saturday
Lunch: 11am to 5pm
Dinner: 5pm to 10pm

Technorati Tags: The Epicurean Restaurant, Chef Peter Golaszewski, Decatur, French bistro, French-Southern Cuisine, wine shop

My sister and I had the pleasure of dining at The Epicurean Restaurant last weekend. All I can say is this: Oh. My. Gosh. This. Is. The. Best. Dinner. Ever. In fact, my sister begged me not to write about it for fear that it would make people come in droves. Too late. In fact, a steady stream of diners kept coming in while we were there — some for a quick bite; while others lingered over good food, wine and conversation. Like us.

You (or your parents) might associate the name Epicurean with catering and that’s quite accurate. In fact, Epicurean has been a leader in the catering business in Atlanta for 30 years. Located in an obscure plaza on Clairmont Rd in Decatur, it’s fairly easy to overlook this French bistro. But step right in and you’d be amazed by the inviting atmosphere the minute you walk in. And within seconds of setting your foot on their black and white tiled floors, you’re transformed into a cozy Parisian ambiance. Couple that with a well-thought-of menu with inventive items prepared by famed Chef Peter Golaszewski formerly of The Ritz Carlton and you have what’s guaranteed to be the perfect dining experience.

Our dinner reservations was at 6pm which was still very bright and sunny outside and we were worried that it’ll just be us and the servers but we were pleasantly surprised to see the place already bustling by the time we got seated. Dashing restaurant manager and sommelier Andr�s Loaiza (formerly of Mitra — sister restaurant to Sia’s which also happens to be a favorite of mine) made wonderful recommendations including a Domaine Saint Claire chablis to go with our meal.

Our almost three-hour dining experience started with several appetizers. First, came the skewered Boursin cheese balls, blueberries, and raspberries. I liked the contrasting flavors and textures of the mild soft cheese with the sweet and slightly crunchy berries. Next came a plate of Sweetgrass Dairy’s Tomme cheese with Georgia strawberries and sweet onion marmalade. It was fantastic — I’ve never had tomme cheese paired with onion marmalade before and the sweetness of the strawberries and the onion marmalade really went well with my favorite mild cheese. The Arugula Salad with super sweet tomato slices drizzled with a fennel-bacon vinaigrette and truffle oil topped with a sprinkle of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese was an explosion of flavors in your mouth: sweet, salty, and bit of sour. It’s a light, clean tasting salad that will not overpower your main course. The Crab and Corn cake (another chef’s specialty) was simply outstanding with perfectly seasoned lump crab meat and corn with a very light panko crust. I loved that the you can really taste the crab meat in the foreground and the corn in the background with nothing major added to interfere. It came with a very complementing side of grilled red onions and blood orange sections under a drizzling of honey-mustard dressing.

The Fava Soup garnished with skirt steak was a pleasant surprise. I was expecting a curry Indian flavor but it was nothing like that at all. It tasted very light which is not typical of pureed bean soups yet it was full of flavor with the pieces of steak adding contrast to the smooth soup. Last came the Faux Caprese salad made with balls of goat cheese and grape tomatoes swimming in basil oil and tomato water served in a wine glass. The presentation alone is enough to make your mouth water. I had the mistake of eating the tomato and the cheese separately and I thought, well, I’m sure this wasn’t how Chef Peter intended this to be. At first, I thought it was unimaginative, and quite frankly, ordinary. Until, I ate the tomato and the cheese together, biting the tomato first, followed by the cheese, and voila, it’s like an epiphany — a medley of flavors and textures exploding in my mouth: first the sweet crunch, then the mild and soft with the oilines of the basil oil toned down by the tomato water. It was great.

Our main course also consisted of several items. First, we sampled one of the chef’s specialties, the Seared Pork Loin on top of coarse mashed potatoes with red wine reduction sauce. It was refreshing to see this dish not accompanied by some kind of apples or some citrusy sauce. Instead, the red wine-based sauce added flavor to the moist, tender pork. The Butter-poached Skate Wing served with Asparagus and Hazelnuts in a thyme-veal reduction sauce was a refreshing take on an otherwise ordinary fish. The fish was very flavorful with a slight hint of butter and lightly grilled adding crisp while the inside stayed moist. It was paired well with the crunchy whole hazelnuts and tender asparagus. The thyme-veal reduction sauce balanced the clean taste of the fish.

Lastly, the pi�ce-de-r�sistance, the one course that made me want to weep: Anson Mills Risotto with English peas, Bay scallops, and White shrimp. It was simply magnificent. The risotto was just perfect; not soggy, yet not starchy hard but with just the right amount of chewiness. It was creamy yet not overly rich, with the scallops and shrimp adding additional wonderful saltish flavor to the dish and the peas taking care of the sweetish side. If there is one word to describe this, it would be heavenly.

For dessert, (and yes, we still have room for dessert despite literally consuming every single morsel of food on our plates), I settled on the Molten Chocolate Cake with a side of homemade Ginger ice cream. Though it takes 10 minutes to prepare this cake, it was well worth the wait as the delicious, not overly sweet moist cake oozed with glorious melted dark chocolate. I would have loved to have this paired with a toned-down ice cream such as creme fraiche, possibly even just Chantilly cream would suffice as both the cake and the ginger ice cream were competing with each other. Perhaps, it was daring of me to select a bold dessert after having everything I’ve had and a lighter dessert would have been adequate. The sister chose the Ginger Biscuit with Creme Fraiche ice cream with a strawberry garnish and a dollop of sugar water. It was a clever take on the usual strawberry shortcake. The biscuit was slightly gingery and a good accompaniment to the delicate tasting creme fraiche ice cream. It was a perfect period to a wonderful meal.

Our dining experience at The Epicurean was simply magnificent. Chef Peter Golaszewski’s dishes are ingenious and inventive. He combines local ingredients that both balance and blend exciting flavors and textures bringing about dishes that are clearly superb. The service from both Andr�s and our exceptional server Julia (who was always two steps ahead of us, thus, ensuring we never had to ask for anything) elevated our visit to an even more pleasurable one. We were clearly blown away.

Insider tip:
Closed on Sundays and Mondays but will open Sunday, May 13 10:30am-2:30pm for a special Mother’s Day Brunch.
Their wine shop sits next door.
Menu changes monthly. Check their website for details.
Six-course tasting menus available on Friday/Saturday as well as a 3-course Prix-Fixe Tuesday-Thursday.
Service is outstanding.

The scoop:
The Epicurean Restaurant
1361 Clairmont Rd.
Decatur, GA 30033
Telephone: 404.321.0530
Open Tuesday to Saturday
Lunch: 11am to 5pm
Dinner: 5pm to 10pm

Technorati Tags: The Epicurean Restaurant, Chef Peter Golaszewski, Decatur, French bistro, French-Southern Cuisine, wine shop

I’ve been going to Joel for a while. I remember bumping into highly-acclaimed Chef Joel Antunes in 2003 when he was having a cooking demo at the grand opening of (gasp) Bloomies at Lenox. I was drawn not by his ability to produce such flavorful morsels of food given the two-burner stove he was laboring over with, but by his soft, accommodating demeanor. A true French artiste at heart, his attention to detail is remarkable.

The former head and star of the Ritz Carlton Buckhead’s The Dining Room built his 5-million dollar brasserie with a dream kitchen that’s quite out of this world (just imagine a 62-foot stove). From the moment you step in, you’ll be wowed by the contemporary decor. That includes the ultra-spacious hip bar and the uber-stylish ladies bathroom.

I’ve been to Joel many, many times and I have yet to be disappointed. Both with the food and the service. I love the way Chef Joel incorporates Asian ingredients with his French cuisine — an influence from his life in Asia some time ago. Every item on the menu is well-thought of: from the balance of flavors to the textures and taste.

For a truly good deal, go for the three-course $49 Chef’s Weekly Menu (used to be $39) available during the week or the Spa Menu for $25 guaranteed served in 35 minutes or less. It’s a five-star food from a five-star chef in a five-star place with a five-star service but not a five-star price.

Insider Tip:
The entrees, on their own, are quite satisfying (especially after the bread and starters) so I’d forego ordering any additional sides unless you’re really feeling ravenous.
Check-out the ladies bathroom — it rocks!
The extensive wine selection can be daunting so ask for the Sommelier’s recommendation. And stop-by The Market where you can purchase wine served at the restaurant (unfortunately, it’s only open until 5:30pm but you can definitely pop in after your lunch).

The scoop:
Joel
www.joelrestaurant.com
3290 Northside Parkway at the Piazza at Paces in the Forum Building
404-233-3500
Valet Parking
Reservations recommended
Dinner: Monday-Thursday 5:30PM - 10:00PM
Friday-Saturday 5:30PM - 10:30PM
Lunch: Tuesday-Friday 11:30AM - 2:00PM

Technorati Tags: Joel restaurant, Chef Joel Antunes, Atlanta, Northside area, prix fixe, weekly menu, French cuisine