Chow Down Atlanta

Have you really seen or tasted street food in Bangkok? I have been there countless times and have eaten every single street food available. It is one of my most favorite cities for eating. And it is a very vibrant, very alive country. Here are some of the street food pictures I have taken throughout the years:

I first went to Tuk Tuk a couple of weeks ago to meet some foodie friends. The place is huge and I felt more like I was in a gastropub instead of a Thai restaurant. The menu is quite small. All these buzz going around about this place and street food (all in one sentence) got me all confused because I was expecting street food in form and fashion with dishes in the $4 to $5 range.  However, most small plates hover around $9 and entrees are about $14 with serving sizes tinier than kids’ meals.  Actually, it is not really surprising as this is an offspring of pricey Nan.  I did not take any of pictures on my visit (there are some here and here). I will include photos I have found (and borrowed) from Melissa‘s flickr account and some that I found in my stash.

took this in Bangkok, circa 2000

took this in Bangkok, July 2007

photo courtesy of Melissa Libby

Moo Yang
This is my ultimate favorite street food and the most traditional in Thailand. These skewered thick strips of pork are marinated in a sweet, soy-based sauce. The taste should lean more toward sweet. The version here leaned more towards salty. I prefer the authentic sweet. I do love the presentation of this dish with its hanging skewers. Interestingly enough, the skewer handles were refrigerator-cold, yet the meat was warm. Verdict: Weak.

took this in Central Thailand, late 90s

Hoy Tod
This light pancake is made with mussels, bean sprouts, scallions, cilantro and then topped with sweet chili sauce. I have seen a lot of this sold at floating markets.  The version here is good but it is quite difficult to mess this up anyway.  By the way, if you ever get a chance to go to Bangkok, do NOT miss the floating markets.  It embody the culture of the land.  Just a caveat, the water is beyond dirty as sewage seeps from the pipes to the river, so make sure to cover your mouth if you are going through the river as the boats go really fast and water splashing in your face (read: mouth) cannot be avoided. Verdict: Ordinary.

photo courtesy of Melissa Libby

Mieng Kum
I have seen this mostly in Chiang Mai where the toppings are encapsulated in a fresh green leaf that is folded into a ball then about 5 or 6 are skewered together. In restaurants in Thailand, this popular appetizer is served on a big platter with leaves — usually bai cha plu (betel leaves) or spinach — and toppings which you must build on your own, much like the Thai Lettuce Wraps you see here in the US. The condiments are placed on top of the leaves and eaten in one bite. The result is an explosion of flavors in your mouth. Typical toppings and condiments include peanuts, onions, coconut, lime, ginger, chiles, some sort of sweet sauce, toasted coconuts, and even dried shrimp. Here, they have taken the pains (and the fun) out of building your own leaf and comes pre-built. This is one of the best things on the menu here and I recommend it highly. Do take note of the different flavors that you get in one bite — each flavor and texture is simple but become complex as a whole. Verdict: Outstanding.

rising buns taken at a street stall in South Thailand, around 1998

Sala Pow
Just about any Asian country has a version of steamed buns. The ones here resemble its Chinese cousins, with its barbecue pork filling. The buns are soft and moist and the filling is okay. You can get better ones at just about every other dim sum place on Buford Highway. Verdict: Meh.

photo courtesy of Melissa Libby

Ba-Mee Moo Dang
There is this street in Bangkok where the food stalls (make shift kitchens and dining area) are set up at night then packed up and gone (like nothing happened) before the sun rises. You must have an iron stomach to eat at stalls like these because the dining implements do not get washed that well. An assortment of noodles are either dipped in broth or stir-fried with meat and veggies. Ba-mee moo dang uses thin egg noodles as is the case here. The flavors are spot on: the noodles are bathed in flavorful broth, drained, then mixed with Thai BBQ pork, peanuts, scallions, cilantro and yu choy. Verdict: Delicious.

Pad Mee
This noodle dish is a very inexpensive street food that is served either as a soup or dry such as here. Vermicelli noodles are stir-fried with mushrooms, sprouts, scallions, and egg. There is really not much flavor going on here (and the portion is teeny-tiny) so I suggest you skip it. Verdict: So so.

took this in Bangkok sometime in Summer 2004

taken with my iPhone

Kra Pow
This minced pork sauteed with sweet basil, garlic, and red chilies is a Thai staple. It is literally found everywhere. Stir-fried in giantic woks all over the streets in Thailand, it is served in styrofoam containers on a bed of hot, steaming white rice and topped with a fried egg. Here, the perfect balance of sweet and salty plus the taste of spices were excellently captured. I consider this in the top two in the metro. Verdict: Beyond perfection.

While you will not be able to experience true Thai street food here, there are some dishes that are worth trying and coming back for. Prices are very steep and portion sizes are miniature (the Kra Pow which is a big plate on the menu is literally 5 bites/spoonfuls). We were still so hungry after our dinner here that we had to go to H&F a few blocks away to eat some more just so we can be full.

Insider tip:
Located in the old Taurus space.

The scoop:
Tuk Tuk Thai Food Loft
1745 Peachtree Rd
Atlanta, GA 30309
(678) 539-6181

Technorati Tags: Thai, street food, Peachtree Hills, Midtown

I’m the only person I know who has been to Erie, PA. Mark, a longtime and dear friend, is from Erie. We took a weekend trip there a couple of years ago to visit his family. While Erie isn’t really a food destination town, they do have many mom-and-pop doughnut shops (perhaps an influence from nearby donut-crazed Canada) that make doughnuts from scratch daily. One place, I can’t remember which one anymore, had the softest, airiest doughnuts that are glazed lightly and filled with delicious creamy fillings. Divine. We still talk about those doughnuts to this day and I’ve been craving those forever. Well, guess what, we have something better in Sublime.

These yeast-raised doughnuts are made by hand everyday by Chef Kamal Grant. The doughnuts are soft, moist, airy, fluffy, and buttery. Buttery. They melt in your mouth. There is no resistance when you bite down. They taste like pastry. Repeat, they taste like pastry. They’re simply sublime. My favorites? All of them. Especially the sugar-frosted croissant, the Reese’s cup, the deep-dark fudge, the dulce de leche, and the chocolate twists.

To say these are the best doughnuts in the state is an understatement. Hmmm, oooh, aaaah. Sounds of ecstasy. Which is what you’ll make as you eat them.

Insider tip:
Go early. They sell out fast. (Or do like me and have an Eric get a dozen for you before Atlanta wakes up. ~Thanks buddy!)

The scoop:
Sublime Doughnuts
535 10th St NW
Atlanta, GA 30318
(404) 897-1801

Technorati Tags: doughnuts, Midtown

I’ve enjoyed Chef Jay Swift’s continental cuisine back when he was still at Rainwater (Alpharetta, now closed). Now in Midtown, his take on farm-to-table comfort food is refreshing.

The menu is divided into the day’s dishes, as well as the current seasonal offerings. On a recent visit, all I wanted to eat were the small plates. My first of three started with the Crispy Brussels Sprout salad which came highly recommended by our server. These are small sprouts, flash-fried, served with North Georgia apple slices. This salad was really delicious. I loved the crispiness of the brussels sprouts whose slight bitterness was countered by the tart apples and the sweet apple cider reduction then tempered by decadent creme fraiche.

The Slow Braised Lamb Cheeks was the one thing I really wanted to eat that evening and I was not disappointed. The lamb cheeks were so tender and tasty. The reduced braising sauce was so dense and intensified in flavor. The accompanying diced, root vegetables provided some crunch, while the smoked bacon provided smokiness and a tiny hint of saltiness to the sweetish sage jus. It was reminiscent of braised brisket but with more character. Delicious.

I love risottos so getting the Champagne and Oyster Mushroom Risotto was a natural choice. The oysters were fresh and the light dusting of batter gave them a bit of crunch while still retaining their original softness. However, the risotto wasn’t as creamy as I wanted it to be. It was also more on the runny side, with the grains separating from each other. While I don’t like gluey, clumpy risotto, I also don’t prefer it to be soupy.

I was able to taste other dishes my friends ordered. The Pan Roasted Duck Breast was just divine, served at the perfect medium-rare temperature in some tangy berry sauce. The Veal Schnitzel was ever so tender with only a thin coating of batter. The spätzle that came with the dish was perfectly prepared, with the Swiss chard, and farm egg, all rounding up this great dish. We were all curious about the Mac ‘n Cheese so we talked someone in the big group to get it with his meal. Good choice, it was creamy and just plain good.

Service and food are all top notch.

Insider tip:
The floor-to-ceiling, glass-walled kitchen is an exciting sight to see, visible from any part of the restaurant.

The scoop:
4th & Swift
621 North Ave NE
Atlanta, GA 30308
(678) 904-0160

Technorati Tags: Jay Swift, American, Midtown, Old Fourth Ward

My friend PT, aka the pizza enabler, invited me to lunch at Antico. I had never been so I jumped at the opportunity. That was Friday. I’ve been back twice since. To say it was the most fun lunch would be an understatement. Giovanni was not only the most gracious host — he’s funny, witty, and absolutely passionate about his craft. Lunch that day was more like a seminar on pizza making. I could probably open my own pizza joint afterward, armed with all his pizza-making “secrets”. But then again, yeah right — I can’t even bake to save my life!

First, it’s all about the ingredients: specially milled flour and authentic San Marzano tomatoes (canned within 4 hours of harvest with each can having a serial number and necessary seals/certificates) imported directly from Italy, fresh ingredients, delicious cured meats, extra virgin olive oil, all contribute to the makings of a great pizza. Then, the dough. It is a work of science in itself. The consistency is adjusted depending on the weather. Finally, the oven. At over 1000 degrees, the pies are baked an average of 60 seconds. The result, a masterpiece — the dreamiest pies ever — springy, crunchy crust with amazing char, gooey buffala cheese, outstanding pizza sauce, a bit of sogginess which is to be expected, and an excellent melding of sweet, spicy, salty flavors.

I have tasted all the pizzas but my absolute favorites are the San Gennaro and the Diavaola. In the San Gennaro, the spicy sausage chunks are tempered by grilled onions, the red peppers add sweetness, the buffala provides a chewy texture, and the crust supplies the canvas for the flavors to shine. While I do find the crust blandish on its own, it’s not really meant to be eaten as is, much like in Asian cuisine where you don’t really eat the steamed rice by itself.

The Diavaola combines spicy, garlicky sopressata, housemade peperonata, and fresh buffala. The sopressata is very tasty with the right amount of mild saltiness to it. The slices are thick enough to provide meatiness in a every bite. The peperonata is pleasantly spicy. Simply delicious.

While Giovanni does not allow you to customize your pizza, there’s a perfectly good reason to it. The ingredients on each type of pizza are designed to provide the best combination of flavors and textures, thus, the resulting pie is of the highest quality overall. Here’s a short video of Giovanni with a brief explanation:

To cap off a perfect meal, one must have perfect Italian espresso made from an old-fashioned maker. The coffee is strong and so good.

And what goes with espresso? House-made cannoli and sfogliatelle. Both are delectable and freshly made daily.

Lastly, some Limoncello. Also made in-house daily. Strong. Tart. Sweet.

Finally, it’s time to go. Verdict: pizza perfection made the old-fashioned, authentic, Italian way. As a parting shot here’s Giovanni with my moo card.

There are over 100 photos on this set. Click on the picture below or here to see more pictures:

The scoop:
Antico Pizza Napoletana
1093 Hemphill Avenue
Atlanta, GA 30318
(404) 724-2333

Technorati Tags: pizza, Midtown, Neapolitan, Westside Atlanta

My dad’s office was literally two blocks away so eating here when we were younger was a regular thing when we came to play at his office. It’s been about a couple of years since I’ve been at Mary Mac’s so I talked a friend into joining me for lunch last week. I remember when Mary Mac’s was just a tiny space. Over the years, they’ve added a room here, a room there, and now they just about occupy the entire block. By the way, be very careful when crossing the street in these parts — we almost got killed twice, and while crossing on a crosswalk, too!

The one thing I love the most about this place is the service. They are all so warm and hospitable. So proper and professional. I surmise these wonderful people have been serving here for many years. I don’t think there’s anyone here under the age of 40.

First the bread basket. I am a certified breadaholic. I love soft, moist, yeasty rolls and sweetish corn bread. Unfortunately, such is not the case here (anymore). The rolls, while warm and freshly baked, didn’t have the yeastiness southern cuisine is known for. The corn bread was also a tad on the dry side. You’ll need to slather a good amount of butter to compensate.

We started with an order of Mudbugs. These are big, plump crawfish tails battered lightly in cornmeal then fried golden. The crawfish had a good bite and not too chewy. The chunky tartar sauce is a bit too mayonnaisey so I suggest you dip them in cocktail sauce instead.

My fried pork chops were moist and tender, fried perfectly, and had a thin, crisp batter, but was just a bit undersalted for my tastes. The creamed corn was absolutely fantastic. They use fresh corn with light cream. Delicious. However, I was quite disappointed with my collard greens. They were offensively bitter. Don’t get me wrong, though, I love bitter vegetables and always order bitter melons from Asian restaurants. If you haven’t eaten bitter melons before, don’t. Really. It’s an acquired taste and I don’t know anyone except me and my mom who actually like the stuff. But if you must, then take baby steps and get bitter melons in black bean sauce. But back to my collard greens. I’ve eaten a fair share of collard greens in my life and I never fail to get it whenever I’m in a southern restaurant including here. The collard greens here were uneatable. And I don’t remember them being that bad here. A bit more vinegar while cooking would have solved the problem and my addition of copious amount of pepper vinegar couldn’t save this one from anything. Oh well.

My buddy’s Chicken and Dumplings doesn’t even sound appetizing to me. Maybe because I have never, ever tasted a good Chicken and Dumplings. The starchy, chewy, sticky dumplings just don’t do it for me. And I still don’t know what possessed my friend to order this awful excuse for baby food. Incidentally, my mom made homecooked baby food for us. So yes, we were spoiled. So I was already prejudiced before his food ever came and I wasn’t surprised because I was right all along. I still have not found a place that makes good chicken and dumplings.

I still love this place. I have fond memories here. And it’s an Atlanta institution. We never fail to bring out-of-town guests here all the time. If you haven’t been, you have to try it at least once.

Insider tip:
All-you-can-eat lunch special available to parties of 3 or more.

The scoop:
Mary Mac’s Tea Room
224 Ponce De Leon Ave NE
Atlanta, GA 30308
(404) 876-1800

Technorati Tags: Midtown, Atlanta, Southern cuisine