Chow Down Atlanta

August 12th marked Woodfire Grill’s 6th year under owner and executive chef Michael Tuohy. Sadly, it was also his last day there. For the past six years, Atlantans have been spoiled by Chef Tuohy’s true farm-to-table concept and creations from his wood-fired grill. This Saturday, he packs his bags for sunny California to head Grange at the new Citizen Hotel which is slated to open in November 2008.

Photo courtesy of Broderick Photographer

We’ve been fans of Chef Tuohy for a while now so when my sister asked me where I wanted to go for an early birthday dinner, I chose Woodfire. It was a big night for us: we wanted to bid farewell to Chef T, eat his last meal at Woodfire, and celebrate my birthday (though days early) with my little sister paying. (You have to understand, my little sister still lives off of our parents so it was a big deal. Not to mention this will only be the second time in her entire life she’s ever paid for dinner. Okay, three times, but lunch at Souper Jenny doesn’t really count.)

Photo courtesy of Broderick Photographer

Our night didn’t start out right to begin with. First, we were running a little late. My sister called ahead to tell them we were going to be 10 minutes late. When we got there (9 minutes past our reservation time), they’ve already given out our table and was told there was now a 30-45 minute wait. It was understandable, given that it was their busiest night. We conceded defeat and couldn’t do anything but mope. Literally. A minute later, a server approached us (he probably noticed our long faces) and asked if we’ve been helped or if we wanted something from the bar. He excused himself after hearing us whine and told us he’d see what he can do. Exactly three minutes later, he’s ushering us to a cozy table for two. See, moping and whining pays.

The scene

It was packed to the rafters. Not a single empty table or empty seat that night. Chef Tuohy was doing the customary rounds. He thanked us for coming and hoped to see us out west. The stoically-faced host and hostess were circling the place all night keeping tabs on seat count. In a corner, an older couple was celebrating their wedding anniversary and had a huge flower arrangement on their table. Sweet. While the rude server in the silk blue top kept piling dirty glasses and empty wine bottles on the ledge which was inches off my face.

The meal

We both decided to go for the 5-course meal. I chose the Insalata Caprese, the Pan Roasted Sonoma Foie Gras, the Spit Roasted Gum Creek Farm Pork Loin, a cheese plate, and the Peach Crepe. My sister chose the Smoked Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho, also the Foie Gras, the Wood Grilled Painted Hills Hangar Steak, also the cheese plate, and the Boca Negra Cake.

There wasn’t really anything among the first course choices that jumped at me so I went with the Insalata Caprese which was a little boring with its usual tomatoes, basil and mozzarella cheese. I really don’t like when they Americanize this salad by dousing it with balsamic vinegar so I’m glad there was only a slight drizzle of it. My sister’s gazpacho was very refreshing and the smoky taste made it even more appealing.

Clearly, the best offering of the evening was the Foie Gras. It was so smooth and milky with the sweet figs adding contrast and the pecan raisin toast providing texture to the dish. It was simply fantastic.

Photo courtesy of ETK

My pork loin was good, though ordinary. It was tender, flavorful and cooked perfectly. The grits and corn succotash were good accompaniments but I have seen this trio so many times that it’s gotten tiring. My sister’s hangar steak was also good, tasty, and cooked perfectly. The cucumber and tomato salad were a nice touch — something you don’t usually see paired with steak.

The cheese platter was all a blur to me since there wasn’t really anything in it that impressed me save for the sheep’s milk one. Frankly, I would have been more pleased if they had included something from Sweet Grass Dairy.

Photo courtesy of ETK

My Peach Crepe dessert was very light topped with that lovely mousse. It tempered the sweetness of the sugar sauce. Contrast that with the Boca Negra Cake which wasn’t really all that.

The verdict

I was expecting Chef Tuohy’s last meal to be more inventive. Flamboyant. Daring. Kinda like going out with a bang. Maybe he wanted to play it safe which he did. Don’t get me wrong, the meal was very good, though, not fantastic.

Service was good but not first-class. Maybe because our server wasn’t staying either. And I’ve already told you about the blue-topped server and the stoically-faced host and hostesses. Remember the waiter that gave us a table three minutes after having been told of a 30-45 minute wait? Turns out he was Bernard Moussa, the owner. No wonder he kept checking on us the entire meal. Topping our weird night was when the valet “lost” my car and gave me the wrong car instead. It took two people 10 minutes to find it, all the while with me having visions of someone driving away with it and trashing and smoking in it.

Bottom line, Woodfire Grill was a great restaurant. I may have to come back just to see what new executive chef Kevin Gillespie does with it.

(Special thanks to BS and BK for the wonderful photos. You can check out more pictures on my flickr account .

Insider tip:
Enjoy a panini at The Cafe located in the front entrance.

The scoop:
Woodfire Grill
1782 Cheshire Bridge Road
Atlanta, GA 30324
404-347-9055
Tuesday through Thursday from 6:00 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday from 6:00 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Technorati Tags: Woodfire Grill, Michael Tuohy, Grange, The Citizen Hotel, Kevin Gillespie, Five Senses Restaurants, Buckhead